Week 44 Summary

Week 44: Last week in paradise! Huaraz and Lima

11/14

This was our second day of hiking and it was supposed to be a hard day. After we planned the route with our German friends, we started walking towards the highest point of the trek. We somehow missed the trail and ended up walking through fields of stone and yellow pokey grass. The trail gradually increased in altitude and we spent our time trying to get back to the real trail and playing with the horses there.

This trek had its own type of scenery. It was dryer and there were less trees than yesterday’s hike.

We decided to keep going and stop for lunch on the very tip top of the mountain pass. We passed numerous lagoons and peaks as the day went on.

As we reached the top, our friend Daniel yelled out encouragement to us which was sorely needed by me! The trek started getting steeper and steeper until there were only steps up!

It was all worth it when we got to the top. The view overlooking the trail we took was amazing, but the other side was even more spectacular! We felt like we were at the top of the world and we could see many glacier colored lakes and even more snow covered peaks.

We decided to stop and have another delicious lunch with tuna, cream cheese, crackers, and dried fruit.

After wandering around the top and resting for a little while longer, we finally decided to head all the way down to our next campsite. While this was easier than going straight up, our knees were starting to bother us on the way down and we were happy to reach our campsite.

We chose a campsite with a lot of big rocks and a little closer to the extra trail we were planning on taking the next morning. It was very windy so we put our tent next to a big rock to block the wind and try to stay warm.

We grabbed firewood and then prepared for dinner. We ate noodles with alfredo sauce, and it was delicious.  We shared the pot again and camped out in this really nice cave after the sunset – it was sooo cold that night! We all huddled together, talked for a while about many random things, made friends with a dog, and planned the next day.

Since we were coming back from our trek up to another lake and a viewpoint, we decided to hide our bags in a little cave within our firepit cave.

We used a cowpie and some rocks and dirt to keep the coals warm and lit and then all said our goodnights.

It was a cold night and I don’t think Luke and I slept at all.



11/15

We shared the pot for breakfast and we made hot porridge and coffee. It was a most welcome warmth since the day started off freezing.

We didn’t want to leave the tent or our fire, but after packing our bags and storing them in a cave like spot, we set off hiking up the nearby mountain.  It wasn’t too steep or too long until we walked through a beautiful meadow and reached the base camp of Alpamayo, considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. From the base camp we hiked another thirty minutes uphill to a beautiful mountain lake with amazing colors and reflections of the surrounding glaciers.  After enjoying the views we hiked back to our campsite from the night before. We retrieved our backpacks, rested for awhile, and then continued on our way. As we walked into the valley it became extremely windy.  It was a long day of hiking, but mostly flat and downhill.  Eventually we reached our campsite which had nice grass and rocks to shield us from the wind.  We ate a late lunch of tuna and then dinner of ramen noodles.  After a campfire and some great story swapping, we went to our tent, and even the dog slept in the “porch” section of our tent.

11/16

The next morning we were finally able to sleep in.  Once the sun was peeking over the mountain we all woke up and had a nice breakfast of oatmeal.  We slowly packed up our bags and then began the final section of the trek.  There were some steep downhill sections as we walked along a beautiful river.  After three or four hours of hiking, we reached a very small town at the end of the trail. There was already a combi waiting to take us to the next town, so after a quick beer we hit the road.  We changed to another combi in the next town and a few hours later we were back in Huaraz.  After a shower and clean clothes we went to the chinese restaurant next door for lunch.  We took a nap all afternoon and that night went out for a beer and burger where we met a nice british guy who had opened the restaurant.  We were still exhausted and slept so well that night.


11/17

The next day we had a lazy morning and packed up our backpacks.  We went to the central market and bought some fruit and ate ceviche for lunch.  Then we met up with our German friends and drank a bottle of wine at the hostel.  We bought a bus ticket for that night and then all four of us headed to the hot springs.  Unfortunately we arrived just as they were closing.  So we took another taxi to a different hot springs another thirty minutes away.  We had to wait in line for awhile and then all four of us entered a private room with a hot pool that was little more than a bathtub.  After thirty minutes we had to leave the room.  Next we waited for awhile before entering a private natural steam room carved out of the rock. It was very therapeutic after our trek and we sweated out any remaining toxins.  We took a combi back to the city and went to grab our bags before meeting at a swiss restaurant. We had a beer and bratwursts before we all hopped on our busses and headed our separate ways.  It was a great time hanging out with our German friends all week, and all because we forgot our cooking pot.


11/18

We arrived in Lima at 8 in the morning and headed to our hostel.  We dropped off our bags and ate breakfast before walking a mile or so to the beach.  The beach had rocks instead of sand, but it was still great, and after a couple hours we were a little sunburnt. We walked along the boardwalk above the beach and visited some nice parks.  We returned to our hostel, then went to lunch at a great sandwich shop nearby.  We relaxed at the hostel in the afternoon and played the arcade style game that had thousands of games.  We played mario kart 64, and it was awesome. We did a little souvenir shopping but were disappointed that prices were considerably higher than in Cusco.  That night we went to a wonderful but expensive restaurant.  We had a combo plate with several different types of meat that were all great, and we both had a giant pisco sour that did the trick.  We had planned to visit the colored fountains but it was too late so we returned to our hostel and went to bed.


11/19

After breakfast we played some more mario kart.  Then we took a bus across town to an old cathedral.  It was nice, but the best part was the catacombs underneath.  There were countless skulls and bones and it was creepy but cool.  We had a cheap lunch and did a little shopping before heading back to our hostel.  We changed into swimsuits and walked back down to the beach.  Unfortunately, it was late in the afternoon and cloudy so we didn’t really get a final tan.  We walked to the park of love for the sunset and then returned to our hostel.  For dinner we went to a nice seafood restaurant and had some great food.  After dinner we attempted to visit the park with lighted fountains.  Unfortunately, President Obama and several other presidents from around the world were there that night, and the whole park was closed.  We were disappointed and took a bus back to the hostel, where we were soon asleep.


11/20

We woke up painfully aware that our trip was over.  We ate breakfast, packed the rest of our things as compactly as possible, and headed to the airport.  We ate mcdonalds in the airport, and began getting excited for good american food.  During the flight to Miami, we had great views of Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, and the Caribbean.  I saw huge wildfires in the mountains as we flew over.  It was also cool watching Peru’s desert landscape turn into the lush green Ecuador we remembered.  We had a two apples, an orange, four kiwis, and a pitahaya that we ate before landing.  I’m not sure what the lady sitting next to us thought.  After landing in Florida we took another flight to Dallas, where Sarahi’s family picked us up.

 

Wow, what a way to end the trip.  The Santa Cruz trek was really amazing.  I’ve never been somewhere with so many beautiful views.  We really enjoyed hanging out with our German friends and hope to see them again someday.  Lima was fun, but we didn’t have time to fully experience it.

Check back later for some takeaways from the trip and our favorite destinations!

 

Week 43 Summary

Week 43: Puerto Inca, Huacachina, Huaraz 
Tuesday, November 8th

We woke up in our amazing tent campsite, practically alone on a beautiful beach, and for the first time in days there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Unfortunately we were out of food and it was time to move on. We ate our remaining food for breakfast and then went to the black sand beach. The sand is rich in minerals and absorbs the sun so it’s very warm. I wanted the therapeutic benefits so I had Sarahi bury me in the sand. We had fun looking at the black sparkly sand and I felt awesome afterwards. We packed our things and at the perfect time a taxi arrived with a few guests. We returned to Chala and ate lunch. I had some nice fish called pejerrey. I’m not sure if it’s freshwater or saltwater but it’s a small tasty fish with filets that are easy to remove from the spine. We found a collectivo (12 passenger van taxi) to Nazca, the city famous for the Incan Nazca lines. We decided not to go because you really need a plane flight to see the lines and it costs USD $80 per person for a 15 minute flight. Instead we hopped on a bus headed a few more hours through the desert to Ica. We found some cheap Chinese food and then took a ten minute taxi ride to Huacachina at the edge of town. Huacachina is an oasis with a pond and Palm trees nestled among massive sand dunes. We arrived before sundown and walked around the lake until we found a cheap hostel that was awesome. We had a whole eight bed dorm to ourselves and great common areas for hanging out. After checking in we got cleaned up and then headed out for a night time walk. We bought a bottle of rum and wanted to play a drinking game for the presidential election. I told Sarahi I thought Clinton would win by the time Florida’s results came in. We were so surprised when Trump started winning everything! Unfortunately I fell asleep in Sarahi’s lap and missed the results in the end. 


 11/9:

The next day we still couldn’t believe Trump won so we spent quite a bit of time reading the news and Facebook reactions. 

We found a breakfast place right next to the oasis. After a big breakfast we sat by the oasis pond for awhile. We returned to our hostel and relaxed for awhile. We bought hamburgers, chips, avocado and beer for lunch and took them to the shore of the pond. After lunch we booked a buggy tour for the afternoon. It cost less than $10 per person and lasted from 4pm until sunset at 6. The dune buggy was fun to ride in and then we started sandboarding. These sand boards are home made and much lower quality than the snowboards we used in the desert of Chile. But you can easily lay or stand on the board and we slid down several different sand dunes. Plus the buggy drives you around so we barely had to walk up and sand dunes. We met a nice guy and a few older ladies on our tour. Then we watched the sunset and had a great view of the oasis. It was a really fun tour. Next we got cleaned up and headed to dinner at a Thai restaurant that was quite nice. 


11/10:

Sarahi was quite upset with me on this day so we ate breakfast separately. I bought some snacks and ate them on the beach. We met up later and took a pedal boat out on the oasis pond. Later I swam in the pond, but some other tourists seemed disgusted so maybe it was a bad idea… We packed our things, ate a quick lunch, and then headed to the bus station at around 3. We arrived in Lima at around 9 PM and then quickly found a night bus to Huaraz. We ate a snack and then hopped on our bus and tried to sleep even though it was freezing cold. 


11/11:

We arrived in Huaraz just after sunrise and it was cold outside. We were tired so we found a cheap hostel from my lonely planet book and were soon napping. We woke up and had some relationship discussions until we realized the day was half over. We headed to lunch and by the time we left it was three in the afternoon! We attempted to visit the hot springs but they were closed by the time we arrived. We spent the evening preparing for the Santa Cruz Trek, which we planned to do ourselves. We weren’t feeling prepared also we signed up for transportation to the Laguna 69, a famous day trek a few hours away. We went grocery shopping and spent $40, but we bought five cans of tuna, fruit, pasta, and everything else we needed for our trek. We ate dinner and prepared day packs for the next day. 
11/12:

We woke up before five am and waited for awhile to be picked up. Then we rode two hours in a bus and stopped for breakfast. We stopped again to pay the park entrance fee and then stopped for pictures at an amazing blue green lake. Soon we arrived and began hiking. The trail was beautiful with a glacier fed river, nice trees, and green grass. Soon we started hiking steeply uphill for a couple hours. There were amazing glacier capped mountains and waterfalls all around us. It was beautiful. Finally we reached the Laguna 69. Just above the lake is a huge glacier and large waterfall pouring into the lake. It was simply stunning. We ate lunch here, took pictures, and sunbathed until it was time to head back. The walk back was much easier and soon we were at the bus. We walked about 12 miles but we felt pretty strong. We returned to the hostel, showered, and then went to dinner at chili heaven. This restaurant has Thai, Indian, and Mexican food, but specializes in anything spicy. We had Indian and Thai curry and both dishes were so spicy but delicious. We took care of some last minute things before our trek and headed to bed. 


11/13:

We woke up at 4:45 am after another poor night’s sleep. We grabbed our bags and walked to the corner where we took a combi (Peruvian term for collectivo taxi) and rode for a couple hours to the next town. From there we took another combi about three hours, just past the road to Laguna 69. We continued until we reached a very small town and began hiking down the trail. Most people take a guided trek of the Santa Cruz trail for about $250 per person, but we only paid around $100 for both of us. We were a bit sore from the previous day and found the trail to be harder than expected. We stopped for a lunch of tuna, cream cheese, crackers, blueberries, and grapes. We walked downhill then slowly uphill through a valley along a beautiful River. We had nice views of the distant snow topped mountains. After another four hours of hiking we arrived at the first campsite. It was at this point we realized we had packed light. So light in fact that we didn’t bring a pot for cooking our food. (Sarahi forgot it). We had mostly noodles and oatmeal and had no other way to cook our food. We decided it was just about impossible to cook our food and didn’t want to starve for three more days of hiking. I couldn’t see another option besides eating a cold dinner and walking back the next day. Sarahi was on the verge of tears and I was quite disappointed as well. Just then a German couple arrived who we had seen on the bus on the way. The guy asked us if we were ok, and Sarahi half jokingly asked if they had an extra cooking pot. He went to consult with his girlfriend and said that they had a small pan that served as the lid to the pot. But because of the altitude and cold, it’s almost impossible to boil water in a pot without a lid. It seemed we would both struggle to cook if we took their lid/pan, but we asked if we could just camp near to them and borrow the pot/lid combo for cooking. They said sure so we continued another thirty minutes trekking to another suitable campsite. They made dinner first and then we borrowed their pot. We made pasta with tomato, cheese, and pepper sauce, and added onions and a can of tuna. It was delicious and so nice to have a hot dinner. We started a fire and hung out with our new friends for a little while. We were all tired and headed to bed by 8 pm. That night it was freezing and we could barely sleep. We woke up with frost on our tent and it was really hard to go out into the freezing cold! 

Week 41 Summary

Week 41: Puno, Cusco, Aguas Calientes, Machu Pichu; Peru
Monday, October 24th: 

We woke up on the reed island and ate breakfast. We enjoyed the tranquility as we barely saw another person. Until nine o clock when hundreds of tourists began showing up in the boats. I sat on the edge of the island feeling the rocking while I tried to draw the scene with colored pencils. We met a nice Mexican couple. We headed back to the mainland at around noon. We ate some nice and extremely cheap food at the bus station and bought a bus to Cusco in the afternoon. It was two hours delayed from the start but eventually we got on the old, crowded bus with no bathroom and prepared for the eight hour bus ride. We made several seemingly long and unnecessary stops but soon the bus was cruising as the dark set in. The bus swerved a couple of times in a way that made people scream and think we were about to tip over. I put on my seatbelt and tightened it up. Everyone on the bus freaked out and starting yelling and banging on things until the bus driver pulled over. Once they were assured he wasn’t drunk we continued on. The swerving happened again and chaos broke loose. Some very angry Italians led the rebellion, while old men cried and women yelled shrilly with frustration. There were chants of “stop the bus” and most people yelled out the varying speed limits they thought safest. The bus stopped again for quite some time as the passengers argued for a new bus. In the end a passenger rode in the front and the bus did not go above 60 km per hour, which greatly added to the time of the trip. We survived and arrived by 1 am. We went to a hostel I’ve read about and found the upstairs bar in full party mode, and a couple of empty beds. We were asleep by two, thankful to be alive and in a stationary bed. 

10/25:

We woke up and took the best, most needed showers in a long time. Sarahi was ready to head to Machu Pichu but I was worn out and wanted to check out Cusco first. It’s a beautiful city with a lot to offer. First we checked out a couple of the nearby and beautiful plazas. We wandered around the touristy area and then headed down the food street. I tried the fried pork ribs, which are just as delicious and fattening as they sound, and Sarahi had the menu of the day with mystery meat stew (turns out it was cow intestines – chewy and weird but didn’t taste badly). We returned to the hostel to relax a little. Then we went to one of the fifteen markets in Cusco. Here you can buy any kind of fruit, veggie, meat, or any other food produced in Peru. They also have souvenirs, restaurants with meals for less than $2, and lots of other things for sale. We loved it and bought tons of fruit, dried fruit, nuts, juice, and fried peppers stuffed with ground beef and veggies. We relaxed at the hostel some more, and then decided to get a massage. They’re very cheap in Cusco – from $6 for an hour. After that we went to the chocolate museum where we had lots of nice free samples and only spent $2 on a chocolate bar at the end. We went to a nice Asian fusion restaurant for dinner but decided the prices were too high. So we went to a cheap hamburger restaurant instead. We packed our bags for the next day and left some stuff at the hostel. 

10/26:

Today we started out Machu Pichu adventure! I made some friends after an early breakfast the next morning so we got a slightly late start. We went to the wrong bus station but eventually our bus, which was also late, left the station. It was a 6-8 hour bus ride to a small town called Santa Maria. In our case it took 8 and was a rough bus ride. Once we arrived there we took a collectivo (shared taxi) to the next town, Santa Theresa. From here it was another hour to the hydroelectric station. From the hydroelectric station you can walk along the train tracks until you reach Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Pichu Pueblo. The alternative method of transportation is a train, which is arguably the most expensive in the world at around $100 one way, or take a multi day trek which costs hundreds of dollars. Our method cost $35 soles ($12) and was much more satisfying. We started the 2-3 hour walk down the tracks and realized it would be dark long before we arrived. We stopped to enjoy an incredible jumping school of fish in the creek. We continued slowly through the dark and stopped for pizza in Aguas Calientes. We backtracked thirty minutes to a campsite at the base of the trail to Machu Pichu. We quickly pitched our tent and went to sleep. 

10/27:

We woke up at 4:30 the next morning and only snoozed for a few minutes. We got packed in the dark and headed towards Machu Pichu. We found a line of fifty people at the first checkpoint and worried we had gotten up too early. The line moved quickly and we were soon hiking up very steep stone steps with hundreds of other early risers hoping to beat the crowds. We passed a lot of people in the nonstop uphill hour hike but saw a few tour busses beating us up the hill. We waited a few minutes in line and then entered quickly, having bought our Machu Pichu tickets the prior day. We didn’t know much about Machu Pichu so we walked up some stairs and then started wandering toward the parts that looked cool. I think everyone else went up above for the iconic picture with no one around, but we found ourselves completely alone for maybe twenty minutes. We had no idea at the time but I ate a snack and Sarahi put on some make up while we sat alone in the sacred temple, probably the most famous site at Machu Pichu. It was amazing. It was a very foggy day which added to the incredible views. As clouds would roll away, while new sections of Machu Pichu would be revealed. We took some pictures of the amazing views we had. We walked around the various sections of Machu Pichu and stopped for a snack. We hiked all the way back to the entrance and exited the park to find at least 100 people in line for the bathroom. This was frustrating as we paid $50 a person to enter Machu Pichu. We had a snack at the snack shop and then re entered Machu Pichu. We hiked up to the upper level where we entered the Machu Pichu Mountain, which costs a bit extra. The hike to the top provides a birds eye view of Machu Pichu, but it is a brutal hike to the top. It’s a straight uphill hike for two hours. The entire trail is made of Incan stone steps, but that doesn’t make it any easier. We had to stop several times but we eventually made it up the mountain despite the rain and fog. Sadly, when we reached the top, we could see nothing except clouds a few feet away. We ate almost all the fruit we were carrying and then headed down the mountain. It was tough on the way down as well. We reached the entrance and continued walking all the way back to our campsite. We were in pain and very tired when we arrived. We changed clothes and packed our tent before walking back to Aguas Calientes. We ran into our Portuguese friends who we had met a few days earlier at the lake. We stopped at a restaurant in town and ate alpaca steak. It was pretty good but maybe just beef. We asked about train prices but found it would be very expensive. We were worn out and it started raining so we decided to stay in Aguas Calientes for one night. We found a nice room with private bathroom and hot shower. We cleaned up and rested until we went out for Chinese food dinner. It rained all afternoon and all night so we were really glad we didn’t camp or hike back in the rain. We slept super well and woke up early the next day to hike back. 

10/28: We ate fruit and bread for breakfast and then began our walk back along the train tracks. We met a nice Colombian guy who was 19 and traveling around for a year eating at soup kitchens and doing soccer tricks for money. We said goodbye and got on a bus back to Cusco. We changed busses in Santa Maria, bought some snacks, and then drove the five hours back to Cusco. We returned to our hostel and got cleaned up. We drank a beer and ate good hostel food. We were very sore and went to bed quickly. 

10/29:

We slept in and had a lazy morning the next day. We ate breakfast in the hostel and then went to the mercado for lunch. It was less than two dollars for soup and a plate of rice, avocado, egg, and salsa. That afternoon we tried to visit the papa museum but it’s been closed for awhile. In the same building was a massage place that offered us a good deal. We had an amazing massage and then returned to our hostel. We looked for Halloween costumes and wandered the city a bit more. We relaxed all afternoon. Sarahi told the guys at our hostel that it was my birthday and they made me take four shots of tequila. It was awful. Then we went to dinner at the number one rated restaurant in Cusco called Organika. I had alpaca steak and Sarahi had beef steak. We also had smoked trout salad and trout ceviche. It was a great dinner and not too pricey. We returned to our hostel where I took a little nap. Somehow I woke up and rejoined the party. We played beer pong and later went to a club. We made it back to the hostel well after sunrise. It was a great birthday! 

10/30:

As we went to bed after sunrise, we both slept in late, until noon at least. Sarahi wasn’t feeling well so I went to bring back some food. After eating and showering we relaxed for awhile. We tried to go for Korean food but the restaurant was closed so we had Chinese instead. We took naps in the afternoon. We didn’t feel like leaving the hostel so we ate some pretty good food from the kitchen. We were worn out from the previous night so we headed to bed early. 

The highlight of the week was Machu Pichu. It’s so much bigger and more incredible than I imagined. It may be the most amazing thing I’ve seen. Cusco is also a really nice city with beautiful buildings and ancient Incan walls. The area around the city had beautiful mountains with many Incan ruins.  This is a place everyone should visit! 

Week 40 Summary

Week 40: La Paz, Copacabana, Isla del Sol; Bolivia, Puno, Peru
Monday, October 17th:

I decided to mountain bike down death road, while Sarahi decided it wasn’t for her. I woke up early in the rain and walked to the tour agency. I met some nice Germans over a meager breakfast and then hopped on the bus for a couple of hours. We climbed up even higher into the mountains (just La Paz is at 4,000 meters of elevation and is the highest capitol in the world). Then we unloaded the bikes. I rented the cheapest version and still paid over $50 for the day. We flew down the steep paved road at first. I’ve never gone so fast. Then we stopped for lunch at the beginning of the death road. Then they told us that the villagers had blockaded death road and wanted 100-200 bolivianos to pass. The plan was to drive two more hours around the road then drive halfway back up and ride bikes back down. At this point there was anarchy. The tour agency had not been honest and we paid full price for half of death road. Many people went back for a refund at this point. I would have but we planned to leave La Paz the next day. Finally, we’re back on our bikes flying down gravel roads with huge cliffs dropping off the side of the road. It was cold and raining but I had a blast. We ended the bike ride at a small house and restaurant in the jungle. We had started the ride at over 5,000 meters of elevation amongst the clouds where there are no plants or animals, and you can barely breathe. We ended in the rainforest at around 2,000 meters where I saw multiple types of monkeys and was warm in a tshirt. It was an amazing experience despite not actually biking the entire road. I returned to my hostel and had a great dinner and a great woman waiting for me. She had spent the day searching for open museums, shopping, reading, and drinking coffee. 


10/18:

The next morning we made breakfast in the hostel and packed our bags. We headed to a random street where we caught a minibus to Copacabana. It was a miserable long drive over dirt roads and I had a large Quechua woman with several layers of baggage and a baby that was half laying in my lap the whole ride. We had to take a ferry and finally the beautiful but claustrophobic ride was over. Copacabana is a small beach town on Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world at over 4,000 meters. The lake is massive. Roughly the size of Massachusetts or Vermont I believe. In the mid 1900’s, the U.S. gave trout eggs to Bolivia or Peru, and the trout population in the lake is huge. The other fish species are being wiped out by the trout. But if you like trout you can find it in every restaurant in Bolivia and Peru, and generally for $3.50 or less. Copacabana is a beautiful town and we found a hostel with a private room for only $7 for both of us. The wifi was fast and we even had a tv! After checking into our cheapest room yet we headed to the beach. We had a nice walk on the beach and took pictures at sunset. We had dinner for about $7. I had decent trout and Sarahi had spaghetti. In Bolivia and Peru nearly every restaurant has a menu of the day. This always includes a big bowl of soup and a few choices of entree. If you’re lucky it might include and appetizer, drink, and desert as well. Believe it or not, we love eating in these countries, especially Peru. After dinner we watched netflix with our fast wifi before bed. 
10/19:

We slept in a bit and then headed to the central market where they have super cheap breakfast. We ordered two coffees with milk, three egg cheese and tomato sandwiches, six Bolivian doughnuts called bunuelos, and api, a hot, spiced and thick purple corn drink that is actually quite nice. It all cost around $4 and was very nice! We lounged in our room a bit longer, packed a day bag, and then grabbed some chicken salteados, the Bolivian version of empanada. It looks like an empanada with burnt edges, but it’s much more saucy on the inside and delicious. We hopped on a boat for a few dollars per person and sat on the roof with a nice Russian girl. It was freezing yet my nose got very sunburnt. After an hour or two we reached the Island of the Sun, a huge island with steep terraced hills. It’s amazing that the people in this region carved small strips of farmland out of steep mountain sides. After getting off the boat we had to pay a few dollars entrance fee and then walk up the Incan steps along the steep mountainside. After some exhausting hiking and confusion, we found a decent hostel for around $4 per person. We shared a room with “Sasha”, our Russian friend, and had a lovely view out the window. We all went to dinner which wasn’t very good. We were worn out and it was cold and stormy. We got in our cozy beds and were soon asleep. 


10/20: 

The next morning we ate cereal for breakfast and enjoyed the view. We packed our bags Sarahi and I set off hiking. We walked down a very steep hill through the Incan terraces until we reached the lake. We laid down on the rocky “beach” and enjoyed the serene and tourist free spot for hours. We watched the birds, donkeys, and locals at work. After a grueling hike back up, we collapsed in rocking chairs at a pizzeria with great views overlooking the lake. We ordered some nice grilled chicken (+soup and sides as is the custom) and had a well earned beer. After lunch we headed back down to the boats and bought a ticket. We waited with Sasha and new friends for an hour and then took the ride back to Copacabana. We checked back into our lovely cheap hostel and then headed to dinner. We found an amazing Italian restaurant where whey were making noodles by hand right in front of us. The gnocchi and pasta was amazing. We were worn out and after some more Netflix went to bed. 


10/21: 

We woke up and returned to our favorite breakfast place in the market. We were sad to leave the cozy town (and our fast wifi) so we decided to stay another day. We spent most of the day laying in bed and watching our Netflix shows. We checked out the massive cathedral in the center of town and ate Hawaiian pizza for lunch. We spent most of the afternoon napping and watching Netflix. That night we went to a great Asian restaurant that serves several courses and desert for a good price. They also had mango lassies which are essentially milk shakes with mangoes. So delicious. 


10/22:

We returned to our favorite breakfast place and ate like kings once again. We returned to our rooms to pack but just couldn’t bring ourselves to leave. Apparently we really needed some r&r so we decided to stay one more day. Sadly, about fifty people showed up for the weekend to the generally empty hotel, and our Netflix didn’t really work after that. I tried some fish native to the lake for lunch, which was pretty good, while Sarahi opted for more pizza. We had a lazy afternoon before hiking to the top of the hill overlooking town. It was a brutal climb but we had some really amazing views at the top. That night the Asian restaurant was full so we tried the Mexican restaurant in town instead. It was delicious and we headed to bed soon afterwards. 


10/23:

The next day it was really definitely time to move on. We returned to the breakfast place, really for the last time, and met a nice family. They had bought a new car, so they brought a small model of it to be blessed by the Virgin of Copacabana. We bought our tickets for one o’clock and relaxed until lunch. We had pizza again and then hopped on the bus for Puno, Peru. Border crossing was pretty easy, but I’m nervous because my passport is filling up with visas and stamps. We arrived to Puno around four and arranged for a boat to take us to the floating reed islands. It took about one hour by boat to arrive at the first island. There are hundreds of islands made from reeds in the lake that float together in a community. It’s a really cool but bizarre place to visit. After walking around on the springy reed ground, we took a reed boat for a few dollars to the next island. Here was the capital island which consists of one snack bar/ passport stamp office, one restaurant, several gift shops, and a few buildings for guests. We decided to stay on the island for about $10 per person. We had our own cozy shack made from reeds. We ate some overpriced but delicious trout for dinner as a massive thunderstorm raged overhead. There was a nice cat who wanted to cuddle in our bed all night ( and I let him). We slept pretty well on our floating reed island inside our reed house! 


We had a great week exploring lake Titicaca and relaxing! Peru is the last country we will visit on this trip; I know it’s sad. Bolivia has some amazing sights but it’s not our favorite country. We’re glad we went, but happy to make it out in only two weeks with extra time to enjoy Peru! 

Week 38 Summary

Week 38: Valparaiso, San Pedro de Atacama; Chile
Monday 10/3:
We woke up in Valparaiso and ate breakfast. We decided to stay another night but we moved to another hostel. After packing we took a bus and then walked up one of the many stairways through the hills of Valparaiso to our hostel. It has been full all weekend but when we arrived there were only a few other people there and we had a whole dorm room to ourselves. There was also a nice balcony and big tv in the living area. We set off walking around and checking out some street art and tourist attractions. We returned to make a snack of guacamole and fruit salad with homemade tortilla chips. That night we watched Netflix on a big hostel tv , worked on Instagram photos, and ate stuffed squash for dinner. 

10/4: 

I booked a flight from Santiago for the following day so we decided to spend one more day in Valparaiso. We slept in, then hung out around the hostel working on blog posts and such. We found out about a great free concert in the evening. We walked to Pablo Nerudo’s house. He’s a famous poet and politician from Chile. It was close to ten dollars per person to enter and it wasn’t that cool. We also visited a museum about a cartoonist named Lukas. We found a bus back and finally found a cheap restaurant where we ate two Italiano (topped with tomatoes, guacamole, and mayonnaise) hot dogs each. Then picked up some white wine and pineapple ice cream before walking back to our hostel. We attempted to make a famous Chilean drink called terremoto (earthquake) but were missing an ingredient or two. We relaxed a bit and then went out for a free outdoor concert which featured an orchestra and a band that was a mix between rock and Andean folk music. It was quite entertaining and in a great setting with tons of locals. We stayed for the concert and then walked back among a huge crowd of people. We ate some leftover fruit salad and then headed to bed. 


10/5:

The next morning we woke up early and left the hostel by seven. We trudged down the hill and caught a bus that took us close to the bus station. From there we caught a bus to Santiago within two minutes. When we arrived in Santiago we caught a shuttle to the airport after thirty minutes. We were checked in and waiting with two hours to spare. The flight had beautiful views of snow covered mountains turning into desert. After a two hour flight (much better than the 20+hour bus ride) we landed in Calama, a desert town near a huge copper mine. We took a taxi into town, ate some fried chicken, and then waited for a bus. The bus to San Pedro de Atacama took an hour or two but the ride was beautiful. Once we arrived we hiked awhile to a hostel that offers camping. We found a good spot and were even offered a mattress to put under our tent (a lifesaver on the rocky desert sand). We walked the town and asked about tours, found an atm, and then went to dinner at a nice place nearby. We were worn out after a long day and headed to bed. 


10/6: 

We slept in a little to avoid the cold desert night but we were soon greeted by the hot desert day. We bought some groceries and ate cereal, yogurt, kiwis, and coffee for breakfast. Then we set off hiking to some ancient ruins just outside of town. It was very hot and dry but a beautiful hike. We walked through the ruins and then to the top of a hill next to it. We ate tuna and crackers for lunch at the top. We hiked back down and relaxed in the shade. After signing up for the Moon Valley tour that afternoon we made another trip into town. We headed to the tour agency at four and were soon driving through other worldly landscapes. We stopped at several different places including a field with rocks carved by sand and wind, a huge sand dune, a cave, and a great lookout point for sunset. We met some nice girls from America and had great tour guides. After our tour we ate Mac and cheese in our hostel. It tasted like fruit loops for some reason so we bought some ramen noodles and eggs to eat instead. I drank wine instead of water and started feeling bad so I went to bed. 


10/7:

We relaxed a bit the next morning and I attempted to rehydrate and adjust to the elevation and dry climate. We ate cheese omelette for breakfast. We went to town and signed up for a tour that afternoon to the seven altiplano lakes. We found an open air restaurant with a three course meal for $5 per person. We headed to the agency and found that nearly everyone else on our bus was Brazilian. After driving for an hour we entered the salt flats. They were beautiful on their own but had the most amazing lakes scattered throughout. Apparently they were only discovered in the last five years. The water was so blue but extremely salty. We were allowed to swim in two of the lagoons. They have five times the saltiness of the ocean, and like the Dead Sea, everyone floats. The water was cold and it was windy but after swimming we were completely dry, though covered in salt crystals, in a matter of minutes. At the end of the tour we were given snacks and Pisco sours (Pisco is the national alcohol of Chile and Peru and is a strong liquor made from grapes, then mixed with sugar, lime juice, and generally egg whites). We signed up for the geyser tour the next morning and bought groceries on the way back. We ate ramen with eggs, peas, and leftover chicken. Chile is by far the most expensive country we’ve visited, especially the food and lodging. Because we spent a fortune on tours we did our best to eat cheaply and get our calories from beer and wine, the only things cheap in Chile. It was now Friday and the campsite filled up. I’m talking tents stacked wall to wall. Some people in the campsite partied loudly until about four in the morning. This was frustrating as we had to be ready for the shuttle at 5 am the next morning.  


10/8: 

After a sleepless night we put on our warmest clothes, which were shorts because our jeans were being washed (I know we should have thought that one through). We huddled in our sleeping bag on the side of the road and looked at some amazing stars. We hopped in the van/bus with more Brazilians and were soon back to sleep. We arrived before sunrise, paid the entrance fee, and parked near the geysers. While they prepared breakfast I went running through the below freezing temperature snapping pictures amongst the most amazing geysers. There are over 80 in the area and are the third best in the world after Yellowstone and somewhere in Siberia. They’re also some of the highest in the world at over 13,000 feet. I ran back to the van, grabbed a coffee and sandwich, and huddled under the sleeping bag with Sarahí. The sun began to rise so we headed back into the geyser field for some amazing pictures. It was truly amazing to walk through clouds of steam, hear the hissing and bubbling geysers, and watch the sun creep over the mountaintop. There’s a hot spring on site where swimming is allowed. I was excited and hopped in. Unfortunately it was pretty cold except for one area where the boiling geyser water flowed in and threatened to scald your skin. I didn’t stay for long and soon we were back in the van. We passed some amazing scenery and animals like the vicuña (Andean camel) and flamingoes. We stopped in a tiny town were were tried lama meat skewers (quite tasty) before heading back. That afternoon we made sandwiches and attempted to nap but it was too hot. We tried to figure out our Bolivian visa and Uyuni tour and ran around all afternoon trying to get everything done. We decided to stay in town the next day because we didn’t quite have everything ready. We ate a delicious and massive dinner that wasn’t too expensive. Then we went sandboarding at night. It was a lot of fun with lights and a DJ at the bottom of a 300 foot sand dune.  It was a bit difficult to get the hang of but we had a great time. We came back to the town around 1 am and then headed to a party in the desert. There was live music, a bonfire, and incredible stars. We left after awhile and made it to bed by 4 or 5 am, utterly exhausted. 


10/9:

We slept in till eleven and the. Made eggs with ham, cheese and chard. We hung out in camp before going to town to finish arranging our entry to Bolivia. It took a lot of the day but eventually we had everything ready. Sarahi went to the meteorite museum. We ate sandwiches and worked on blog posts but had awful wifi. We ate leftovers from the restaurant the night before. Then we packed and went to bed early. 
It was a phenomenal week. Though Chile is a bit expensive, we saw and did so much in just a few days. Check out next weeks post about our continued trip through the desert to the Uyuni salt flats! 

Week 37 Summary

Week 37: Chiloe Island, La Ensenada, Valparaiso; Chile
Monday 9/26: 

We woke up a bit later than planned, ate cereal for breakfast, and then packed our bags. The weather was a bit rainy so we decided to wait it out. However the rain got worse and the kind hostel owner called to the other side of the island. It was raining there as well and bad conditions for camping. So we decided to stay another night in a cozy room rather than camping in the rain. The hostel owner shared his lunch of meat and beets with us. It was delicious. Eventually we wandered through the rain down to town. We visited the famous church which is made almost entirely from wood. The museum was closed and we couldn’t find anything else to do. So we bought some deserts and found a collectivo (shared taxi) which took us up the long hill near our hostel. We bought a few grocery items and then stayed in our hostel for the rest of the night. I made spiral noodles with tomato sauce for dinner and it was excellent. We watched some tv together and then headed to bed. 


9/27:

The next morning we decided against camping. Sarahi wasn’t feeling the best and we were worried about mud or more rain. So we hopped on a bus and crossed the island in an hour and a half arriving at Chonchi. We entered the national park and hiked for a bit but weren’t super impressed. There’s a beautiful beach to the north of the park but 20 kilometers one way makes for a long day and we didn’t arrive until noon. And we had heard of the Muele de las Almas (point of souls I think) and decided to head there. It’s at least 15 kilometers south of the park and there’s no public transport. So we sat by the road hitchhiking, because without a lift we could never walk the whole way and back before the last bus back to our room. Eventually we did get a lift but only for a couple miles. Then we set off on a long hike and realized we did not have enough time to walk there and back before the last bus or even darkness. Luckily a nice Chilean couple picked us up and we all went to the Muele de las Almas together. From the parking lot it was still a 45 minute steep hike in mud but the views were great. Eventually we reached the destination, took a bunch of pictures, ate a picnic, and rested before heading back. We set off walking down the road again and after several miles the same nice couple picked us up! They really saved us twice. They drove us to northern part of the 20 km long and very wide beach. It was beautiful but super windy. In the end the Chileans drove us the whole way back to Castro, where our hostels were. We returned to the hostel and found out that the following day the fisherman/ entire island were blockading the island in protest against government management of fishing areas. Because there are no bridges we were stranded, possibly for days. Luckily the blockade did not begin until 9 am, meaning we could get up at 5 am and make it on a ferry in time. We decided to have one more seafood dinner and went to a nice restaurant on the coast. I had a whole roasted congrio (conger eel) which is delicious and one of the highlights of Chiloe. But Sarahi had 24 oysters au gratin that were so amazing! It was a meal we will never forget. After dinner we hiked the long way back up the hill and were soon in bed after walking over 14 miles in the day. 


9/28:

We woke up at 5:30 in the freezing cold long before the sunrise. We quickly packed any loose items and set off on the long hilly walk to the center of town. We caught the last bus we could and have never been so grateful for a seat on a bus. We fell asleep as the sun rose and then saw the fisherman blockade beginning as our ferry was the last to cross. We arrived in Puerto Montt an hour later and took a quick bus to Puerto Varas. We bought some groceries and then took another bus around the massive lake to a small town on the far side called La Ensenada. This town is surrounded by three volcanos and borders a lake you can barely see the other side of. It is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. We camped essentially on the beach and just at the base of volcano Osorno. It was 75 and sunny and I quickly changed into shorts and a tank top, then of course went barefoot on the sand. The campsite was pretty cheap, had bathrooms with hot water, electricity, a light in the campsite, and even wifi! Not to mention that we were the only campers and the view was incredible! We were in heaven. I swam in the freezing cold lake. We relaxed on the beach and played cards. We drank cheap wine and walked around the tiny town. Then we had the most amazing sunset of our lives. You can look at the pics and judge for yourself! We took hundreds of pictures. For dinner we reheated leftover pasta and sauce and grilled a couple sausages. Though we bought a cooking pot finally, we had no utensils so I had to carve sporks out of driftwood. It was a delicious meal. I drank more wine and fell asleep after one episode of Sarahi’s favorite show Once Upon a Time. 



9/29:

The forecast called for rain so after a breakfast of scrambled eggs, tea, and coffee, we packed up our campsite. After relaxing a bit we rented kayaks to take on the lake. It started sprinkling right as we set off but then stopped and the weather was cloudy but nice for several more hours. We kayaked for about two hours and it was spectacular! The water is blue but extremely clear and there was almost no wind so reflections of mountains on the lake were amazing! We saw a couple fish and several birds, as well as some sort of lake oysters. We returned the kayaks and the owner of the campsite told us about a whitewater rafting trip that afternoon with two open spots. He offered a good price so we said yes. We ate crackers and pate (imagine puréed hot dogs in a can, it’s an Argentinian thing but it’s not for us) and rested until it was time to leave for rafting. The other two rafters were a young couple from Belgium. It was their first time rafting and Sarahi’s second. The river was the same color as the lake and just as cold. It offered beautiful views and solid class three rapids. But the water was freezing, the wet suits did not keep us warm and by the end it was rainy and windy. We were soaked already from the huge waves but we were a bit relieved when it was over. We went back to our campsite for hot showers and fresh clothes. We waited for an hour in cold rain for a bus and headed back to Puerto Varas with our new Belgian friends. We hoped for a night bus to Santiago and arrived at the bus station at 8:55. We were on the bus to Santiago by nine and sound asleep shortly after. It was an amazing time and I will forever miss La Ensenada. 


9/30:

We arrived in Santiago at about 9 am and were on a bus to Valparaiso by 10. We arrived at the Pacific coast again at noon. We walked two blocks to a hostel that luckily had two spots for us. Little did we know but a music festival “Mil Tambores” (thousand drums) was in town for the weekend. There was barely a single room available in the whole city, but we found one slightly overpriced room for the next two nights. Our hostel was on the second floor over a meat shop and there were fruit and veggie stands everywhere. It made the hostel stinky and loud in the mornings but allowed for great eating! After showering and shaving we found lunch nearby and then walked down to the beach. The “beach” was actually huge boulders along the ocean but we watched the sea lion colony just off shore. Sarahi dropped her glasses and they fell down among the massive boulders. We figured they were gone but I managed to climb underneath a few of the boulders and by some miracle found the glasses! We left the “beach” after another hour or two and headed to our hostel. We bought some strawberries for $1 per kilo and snacked. We relaxed at the hostel for awhile and made some new friends. We all hung out for awhile and then Sarahi and I walked to a food truck for some good sandwiches. We went to bed shortly after. 


10/1:

After a decent breakfast I hung out with my new friends and then we packed up our bags. We walked to the market and bought quite a bit of vegetables and fruit, like 10 pounds for $4-5! We also found some great ceviche to go. Our hostel was full so we tried to take an Uber which never arrived. We walked to where we might find a taxi and eventually took a collectivo, which is a complicated shared taxi system based on zones that we can’t seem to figure out. We arrived at a house owned by a nice old lady who loved to talk. We had a nice big room with a comfy bed. We ate ceviche and fruit. Sarahi stayed in for some r&r while I went on a hike. I attempted to go to the beach (an actual but tiny beach) but it was closed. So I walked to the top of one of the many hills in Valparaiso. The view over the harbor was nice. I returned to our place and we bought some groceries. We cooked squash stuffed with cheese, ham, and more. It was great but took a long time to cook. We watched Netflix and drank some wine. We went out to near the center of town and checked out a three story bar with two live bands. One was good the other was bad. It was fun but the party didn’t start until at least 1 am and we were too tired to continue for long. We took a bus close to our place and walked back. 


10/2: 

We slept in after our late night. The woman of the house made us breakfast. Then we made some great sandwiches with tomatoes and avocados for the road. We walked down to the nearby road where the all day parade of the festival was taking place. We were surprised to see many women with pretty much nothing but body paint dancing in the parade. There were hundreds of groups and thousands of members of the parade. The street on both sides was packed with people. It was an awesome time and we stayed until the parade ended around eight. We enjoyed our sandwiches and some beer and bought some fries. We took pictures of the sunset and then headed back to our place. I ate leftover sandwiches, we watched more Netflix, and went to bed.


 
It was an amazing week! One of my favorites. We saw so many different landscapes and types of people. We moved around a lot and did quite a bit but it was all worth it! If you ever go to Chile definitely check out La Ensenada! Chiloe Island is amazing as well. 

Week 35 Summary

Week 35: Mendoza, Uspallata, Puenta deal Inca; Argentina

9/12: After a big breakfast in our hostel we said goodbye to new friends and took our stuff across town to a cheaper hostel. After checking in we packed some snacks for lunch and took a local bus to Maipu, a suburb of Mendoza. Once we arrived we rented bikes and received a map for our self guided wine tour. We cycled along the road for a few miles before reaching the first vineyard. This was the cheapest one and we tried six wines for only $7! None of them were too great but the view from the patio we had all to ourselves was amazing! We headed on to the next vineyard which had better wine but was a bit pricier and didn’t have the best view. We tried a few more types of wine and then ate our picnic at a shady area on the property. We pedaled on for a couple more miles and found another vineyard. We got a bottle of wine here but were sitting in the shade and getting cold. So we took our bottle and continued. Then Sarahi told me she really wasn’t enjoying the biking so we ended our tour and headed back to the bike shop. It wasn’t as fun of a day as we had hoped. We went back to our hostel and then headed out to dinner. The restaurants we wanted to visit were closed but we found another one and had some nice steak and pasta. 


9/13:

The next day we ate breakfast in our hostel and then packed a day bag. We bought some sandwich supplies and wine and hopped on a bus to the Cachueta hot springs. The bus ride was beautiful and only took about an hour. It cost around $7 per person to enter but the price included access to around 15 pools of varying temperature, picnic tables, and an amazing view. We ate a great picnic down by the river and drank some wine. Then we lounged around the hot springs all day and moved to different temperatures as they became hot cold or crowded. We left as the springs closed and had to wait outside in the cold for a bus. Eventually we caught the bus, walked back to our apartment in the cold ( maybe I should have worn more than flip flops, a swimsuit, and a tank top) before heading to dinner at a middle eastern restaurant we had heard good things about. It was overpriced but tasty. After eating we were exhausted and headed to bed. 


9/14: We woke up and ate breakfast, dreading checking out of our hostel and moving on. We decided to stay one more night and after breakfast we went grocery shopping. We spent a lot of money but purchased tons of groceries and some other necessities. We made a huge salad and some grilled cheese for lunch. That afternoon we walked around the city and went to a museum on the other side of town. That night we cooked a ton of food and prepared some of the groceries for travel. We ate fried chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy. We put the leftovers in the freezer for the following days travels. We tried to watch a movie together but were quickly asleep. 

9/15: 

After breakfast we packed our bags and cooked some pasta (for pasta salad!). We walked to the bus station and found a bus to Uspallata. It was another beautiful bus ride near the hot springs but then we reached an amazing blue lake we had never heard of. We almost got off the bus there hoping for a campsite but we chickened out and stayed on. We found a sign for Uspallata and got off the bus but then realized we were still several miles away. It was hot and we had water and food for camping so it was a miserable walk. Luckily the one taxi in town stopped and we caught a ride for the best spent $3 of my life. We found a beautiful free campsite in the heart of the town but still quiet. We set up camp, ate pasta salad (delicious by the way), and enjoyed being in nature once again. As it grew dark we wandered the town, which only took ten minutes, and bought some beer and sausages. We returned to our camp to build a fire and cook our dinner of sausage onion and potato wrapped in foil and roasted . It grew quite cold by the time we finished eating so we took shelter in our tent and quickly fell asleep. 


9/16:

After a very cold night we stayed in our tent until the sun warmed it up. After a breakfast of fruit and granola bars we read and relaxed. We added tons of vegetables to the pasta salad and extra ranch dressing. It made an amazing salad and we ate a ton. Then we set out on a hike. A couple of cute dogs came to our campsite and we became friends so they accompanied us on the hike. We walked down the road looking for a museum. We couldn’t find it so gave up and headed down a scenic path. Luckily it led to the museum! It wasn’t too big or exciting but the views out back were great. We collected rocks for awhile and took pictures before returning to our campsite. We wanted to buy some hot dogs for our new friends but the store was closed for siesta. We went into a coffee shop for awhile and when we came out the dogs were gone. We bought hot dogs anyway. That night we ate salad as well as some leftover sausage and veggies. There was an amazing sunset! We watched Lord of the Rings in our warm tent before bed. 


9/17:

We woke to a beautiful day and packed up camp after breakfast. We ate hot dogs for lunch and then hiked to town. Here we found that the next bus onwards was four hours later. So we returned to the coffee shop and watched “Seven Years in Tibet” starring Brad Pitt on Netflix. It’s about a German hiker who is a prisoner during World War Two and forced to flee into Tibet where he learns from the child Dali lama. It was partially filmed in Uspallata, and the coffee shop, named Cafe Tibet, was inspired by the movie and decorated in accordance. It was a great movie and a very fitting location for watching. We kept “recognizing” mountains throughout the movie. We finally took the bus to Puente del Inca. The bus broke down and it was dark and freezing when we arrived. We were surprised to see snow on the ground. But nothing was open, even the “open year round” hotel. We had taken the last bus and were worried about freezing to death in our tent. But we found the only open hostel with very nice people and even hung out with the park rangers that night who fed us amazing food like stuffed pumpkin. Though Puente del Inca is only ten minutes from Chile, the busses do not stop here so we were forced to return to Uspallata the next day.  We were very happy for beds and blankets because it was truly freezing at night. 


9/18:

We made breakfast (of tea, crackers and dried fruit) and then hiked. A few feet outside our front door is Puente del Inca, a naturally formed stone bridge with many colors due to hot spring minerals. We hiked along the train tracks and had cool views. Then we found the national park and talked to the Rangers from the night before. We hiked through the snow to get a nice view of the mountain and some frozen lakes. Aconcagua mountain is the highest outside of the Himalayas. It has huge glaciers and made a spectacular view. We hiked back out of the park, waited with our things and read for awhile, and the took the bus back to Uspallata. We went back to the free campsite, pitched our tent, bought bus tickets for Chile the next morning, went to dinner where we ate baby goat (delicious), went to the coffee shop, and returned to our camp site for well earned sleep. 

It was an amazing week full of activities and camping! Our clothes smelled horrible and our bodies aches after the camping and hiking and bus riding but it was well worth it! 

Week 34 Summary

Week 34: Montevideo, Cabo Polonio, Colonia; Uruguay, Lujan, Mendoza; Argentina

Monday 9/5:

We woke up to a cold rainy day in Montevideo. We decided we needed a decent hotel room where we could stay warm, dry, and entertained. After a meager breakfast we took an uber to our hotel. I think it was only around $30 which is slightly more than our frigid dorm hostel room had cost. But our hotel room had a huge soft bed, a big tv, private bathroom with hot water, and most importantly, a heater to keep us warm. After a small lunch of tuna and crackers we braved the rain and headed out to explore town. It was pouring rain and super windy so we only made it to the Andes 1972 Museum. This entire museum was devoted to the story of the plane crash in the Andes on which the 90’s movie “Alive” is based. If you’re not familiar, a plane carrying a Uruguyan sports team diverted from the proper course and crashed in the mountains. There were many survivors of the initial crash but due to freezing conditions, lack of supplies, and avalanches, many died. In order to survive those alive had to eat the bodies of the dead. It’s a fascinating story and I recommend the movie. The museum was great and the owner was passionate. His best friend is one of the survivors and thus the museum has many original artifacts from the wreck and survivors. After spending a few hours here we attempted to visit old town but were driven back by the weather. We relaxed all afternoon and ventured out for Subway sandwiches that night. It was a much needed day of relaxation.

9/6: After a wonderful hotel breakfast we walked to the old part of the city. It was not very impressive at all. We bought some groceries and returned to our hotel. After packing we took an Uber to the bus station and barely made it in time for the bus to Cabo Polonio. This is a national park today but was originally settled by a large group of hippies in the 60’s and 70’s.  These people were allowed to stay when it became a park, but are limited in construction and such. It’s right on the ocean, features a colony of sea lions below the lighthouse, and is ruggedly beautiful. It took us most of the day to reach the park and was raining lightly when we arrived. We quickly met a nice woman with a small cabin for rent. It was quite small but very cozy and we instantly loved it. It was only $20 and included a nice kitchen and a propane fired heater. It began to rain harder so we did not leave our cabana. We made a nice dinner, drank countless cups of hot coffee and tea and enjoyed our cozy cabin.


9/7: The next morning we found the weather was even worse. The rain had lightened but the wind was ferocious. We worried our cabana would blow away! After more tea and coffee, breakfast, reading under a pile of blankets, and a hot lunch, we ventured out of our cabana. It was so windy the light house was closed  but we admired the sea lions until we were frozen. We returned to our cozy cabana and relaxed until we made a nice dinner. There were two cats and two dogs that liked to hang out outside and beg for food. We watched lord of the rings on my phone and stayed in the warm bed under a pile of blankets. 


9/8: The next morning we tried to eat the rest of our food. We hiked the nearby sand dunes and the weather began to clear up. We ate some snacks and packed our bags. Finally the clouds disappeared and we hiked to the lighthouse again amidst the perfect weather. Unfortunately it was time to head out and we sat on the second floor seats of the truck that took us to the park entrance. We took the bus back to Montevideo and then after only ten minutes of waiting at the bus station took another bus to Colonia. It was nearly midnight when we arrived and after inquiring at several very expensive hotels we found a decent hostel. We were in bed and asleep within minutes. 


9/9: We woke up for the sunrise and took a stroll around the old part of the city. It was nice but after amazing places like Cartagena, Olinda, and Paraty in Colombia and Brazil we were not too impressed. After an hour we went back to our hostel for breakfast and then took the ferry back to Buenos Aires. We were delayed by about an hour and arrived at 1 PM. We had a big day planned so we took an uber to the bus station, stores our bags, bought overnight bus tickets for Mendoza, and walked to the metro. We unfortunately waited for almost an hour on our bus to Lujan, a city about an hour from Buenos Aires. We wanted to go to a zoo where you can let the lions, tigers, elephants, etc. Unfortunately we didn’t arrive in Lujan until 5 and the zoo closed at 6. Furthermore our bus to Mendoza was at 8:45 and we were nervous about missing it. We visited the famous cathedral instead and then took the bus back to the city. We made our bus but were disappointed to miss the zoo. 


9/10: We arrived in Mendoza at around 10 AM and were excited by the snow capped mountains in the distance.  After checking into our hostel and taking much needed showers we walked around the city. We went to the marketplace that sells all kinds of groceries as well as food. We ate nice Mexican food for a pretty good price. We continued on to the main plaza and strolled around the artesianal arts and crafts stands. We returned to our hostel for the afternoon and then went out to buy some groceries. We bought a giant steak (like 2.5 pounds), potatoes, onions, mushrooms, and two bottles of red wine, all for less than $25 dollars. That night we cooked our steak on the grill at the hostel. It took a couple hours but was well worth it. I made some new friends while grilling and after eating we soon went into food comas and deep sleep. 


9/11: 

During the night one of the German girls in our dorm room fell out of the top bunk. The Chinese guy sleeping underneath was instantly awake asking are you ok. This promoted us to think he’s a ninja of some sort. She was ok and the night was uneventful after that. We slept well and ate an awesome breakfast. Then we went on a long walk (because we accidentally walked the wrong way for a mile or more) to a massive park in Mendoza. We finally reached the park and had a picnic. Then we walked around the lake for awhile and enjoyed the views. We walked past the famous gates that was a present from the French and returned to our hostel. We had walked around 12 miles and were exhausted. We took a nap and then headed back to the main plaza in town. We bought a few pieces of jewelry/souvenirs and then returned to our hostel. We attempted grocery shopping but almost everything was closed. We found a corner store where we bought bread cheese and a two dollar bottle of wine. We ate leftover steak with toasted bread and cheese. The hostel had thousands of movies on a disk drive and we selected the new Star Wars movie which I hadn’t seen yet. It was ok. Then we headed to bed without anyone falling out or other noticeable events. 


It was a great week. I wouldn’t recommend Uruguay, but maybe it was the bad weather. It was expensive even compared to Brazil and Argentina. But we were glad we went if just for a few days and it helped us to appreciate Mendoza even more, which I would recommend even if you don’t appreciate wine. The next week was even better as we entered the Andes mountains! 

Week 28 Summary

Week 28: São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro 
Tuesday July 26th

After two weeks back home for Michelle’s wedding we headed back to South America. We flew out from Tulsa in the evening and arrived in Houston to a delayed flight. That night at around 10 pm we finally left for São Paulo, the largest city in Brazil or the Western Hemisphere, and arrived by 10 am. 


Wednesday: 

Although there are good restaurants and nightlife in São Paulo, it is mostly a commercial city. We decided to take a bus directly to Rio. After a six hour bus ride we reached Rio by 7 or 8 PM and took a taxi to our hostel, just a block from Ipanema beach. It was in a very ritzy area, so after checking into our room we walked around looking for a cheap place to eat. We explored the dark and cold beach and then found a pastry and snack shop only a block away. We were still exhausted and after watching half a movie we were in bed. There was a karaoke bar across the street which made it difficult to sleep but anything is better than a plane.
Thursday: 

After a free breakfast we took a nap for a couple more hours. Eventually we got ready and left our hostel in search of lunch. We bought McDonald’s burgers to go and ate them next to lake Rodrigo de Freitas which is the site of some Olympic events and is only a few blocks from our hostel. We walked around a bit and then returned to a jewelry museum on the way back. It was informative but the jewelry was way out of our budget. We returned to our hostel as the sun set. We ate sandwiches for dinner from a nearby grocery store and watched the rest of our movie. We talked for awhile about relationship issues and then went to bed. 

Friday: 

After breakfast we did some research and found an Airbnb during the first week of the olympics. We also bought some Olympic tickets. Then we packed our bags and checked out. We walked a few blocks to another hostel we hoped would be a bit quieter. We had to wait a few hours to check in and planned the next few days. After checking in we went to the beach in search of a famous sandwich shop. It was closed that day so we found another popular sandwich shop a couple blocks from our hostel. We took our burgers to the beach for a picnic and hung our for a couple hours. Then we walked on down the beach to a nice lookout point. We tried to cut through a park but had to turn around. While there we were stopped and searched by the police who are on high alert during the olympics. I was glad I shaved my beard and we were soon on the right path. We went to copocabana fort and enjoyed the old and new cannons and exploring the inside of the fort. It was growing dark so we took the long walk back to our hostel. That night we went back to the same sandwich shop for chicken and cheese sandwiches. We took a nap and then another walk to the beach but we were soon asleep for the night. 

Saturday:

We stayed one more night in the hostel we didn’t really like because the location was perfect for our day. After a leisurely morning we went to the beach and waited a couple hours for the sandwiches to be ready. It was a perfect day and our Uruguayan steak sandwiches were phenomenal and cheap. We set off walking the few miles around the lake until we reached the botanical gardens. They are huge and have many different types of plants. We loved the countless varieties of cacti as well as the orchid house and the massive palm trees. After a couple hours of exploring we were exhausted and decided to return to our hostel. We took a bus we hoped was right and hopped off fairly close to our hostel. We rested our feet and watched a movie before heading out for food. We found a cheap sushi restaurant before returning to the pastry shop for an extra snack to finish off my meal. We returned to our hostel, relaxed a bit more and then went to bed.

Sunday: 

After breakfast we packed our bags and moved to a new hostel. We loved this hostel located on a hill overlooking the ocean. It’s a bit of a walk to the beach but there are great areas to lounge in the sun with a sea view at the hostel. We were tempted to relax all day but instead walker to a bus stop and after some confusion found the proper bus. We took the bus to the area of town containing museums but then were so hungry we walked directly toward restaurants and found a McDonald’s. Then we walked to the museum of modern art but were not impressed by the appearance and decided not to enter. We walked another half mile to the museum of national history. We enjoyed this but were so tired of walking that after our two hour visit decided to head home. We walked quite a ways until we found a bus in our direction and made it within a mile of our hostel. We stopped for groceries and then continued to our hostel as the sun was setting. That night we decided to try the per kilogram restaurant across the street. The food was quite good and after a Netflix movie we went to bed. 

Week 25 Summary

Week 25: San Gil Colombia, Quito, Banos Ecuador
Monday June 20

We get to our camp, La Pancha, after hanging out at our hostel all morning making sure that all our bills were paid and our flights were arranged before we went out. We had wandered a little around the city before it started raining. We spent a wonderful time drinking coffee, reading our books, and then took a bus halfway between towns. We walked a few hundred meters and reached our newest place! We were going to go camping for $20,000 a person but the yurt was $30,000 a person. After finally getting here we were introduced to the area which has an old bus turned into a game/TV room. There was a couple already watching Shrek and, of course, I was extremely excited to hang out! We watched a movie after dinner and then went to bed.

Tue June 21

This day we woke up and had another amazing breakfast. We spent a majority of the day relaxing and meeting new people.

We got to finally learn how to play Catan with the owner, Justin. We spent a few hours playing it. Then we picked fresh herbs from the garden and made some pretty ramen noodle soup with a few eggs in it. Luke cut up some fresh fruit and made a bomb fruit salad. That night we played with another new friend and taught him how to play!

We went to bed in the cold, warmed by our multiple blankets.
Wednesday June 22

We decided to spend another day relaxing at La Pancha. We had only planned to stay one day but we had such a good time we stayed for a few extra nights. We made friends with some of the other guests and played another round of Settlers of Catan. We made spaghetti for lunch with some fresh picked garden herbs. We ate all of our dinners at the hostel which served vegetarian food only, so we were extra healthy for a few days, but enjoyed the food.
Thursday June 23

We spent our final day relaxing around La Pancha.  Sarahi slipped and cut her foot on a rock in the mud, so she stayed around camp for the day. I went on a hike with a new friend named Steve, but it was mostly a lazy day.  We played Settlers of Catan and watched more movies.  We decided to share a taxi and take a night bus with our Swedish friends.  The bus was so cold we could see our breath.  It only lasted around six hours, and we arrived in Bogota early in the morning.

Friday June 24

We left our stuff at the bus station near the airport, and headed to the old town with our Swedish friends.  We recommended a few places to eat and saw them at breakfast! We spent most of the day in coffee shops and restaurants due to the rain. We stopped for a beer and again saw our Swedish friends at the local Bogota Beer Company.  Then we headed to the airport around three hours before our flight was scheduled to leave.  We made a quick stop at the bus station to grab our backpacks, and continued to the airport.  Unfortunately, the traffic was terrible, and it took us over two hours to travel what usually takes 30 minutes. We arrived at the airport with 45 minutes to spare, but the airline policy was check in one hour before the flight.  We very sadly learned it would cost $150 a person to change to the next flight, but it was worth it because the trip was round trip.  This was our most expensive mistake all year and meant that we would arrive extremely late in Quito.  After a few hours in the airport and traveling, we arrived at our hostel in Quito at around 3 AM and were instantly asleep.

Saturday June 25

We slept in a little before eating a great breakfast in our hostel.  We found that our hostel had great views, free coffee, and lots of cool people.  After breakfast we signed up for the free walking tour. We started across the street at the Central Market of Quito.  Here you can buy all kinds of fruits, veggies, meats, flowers, meals, and more.  Then we continued through some historic areas and learned about the history of Ecuador.  Quito is home to incredible architecture, well preserved colonial areas, and breathtaking views. After several hours of walking and learning, we ate lunch at the central market.  We spent the afternoon relaxing at the hostel and watching the Hobbit.  That night there was a pub crawl, so we wandered around to a few different bars with all of our friends from the hostel.  It was a really fun night with tons of great memories made.

Sunday June 26

We woke up in Quito feeling the effects of our late night the night before. After a great breakfast and several cups of coffee, we walked back to the Mercado Central where we had juice, roast pork and potato “tortillas”, flan, “Ecuadorean sopapillas”, and bought a bunch of fruit for the road. We took a bus to Baños, a beautiful small touristy town in a valley below a huge volcano. We arrived in the late afternoon after a beautiful bus ride. It started raining so we stayed inside for a little while. Eventually we went out for pizza and watched the first half of the South American soccer championship. Then we headed straight to one of the towns several thermal baths. The water is 118 degrees Fahrenheit and felt great on a cold rainy night but only for a few minutes at a time. The bath is located at the foot of a massive waterfall which is lit up at night. We went to the thermal bath on the roof which was a bit cooler. When walking back from the baths we saw that the soccer game was in overtime. We stayed for the end and then returned relaxed and exhausted to our room.