Week 12: Island of Fernando de Noronha
Day 79: (Sunday, March 20th, 2016)
We woke up for our last morning in Olinda. We attempted to go to church in one of the ancient cathedrals for a Palm Sunday service but when we arrived the church was closed. We still don’t quite know why and had heard rumor of Gregorian chants or something of that nature. Maybe we went to the wrong church but it was already blazing hot outside so we returned to our room and packed our bags. We had no bus ticket yet so we took a taxi to the bus station and bought a ticket for later in the day. We had a lunch of bread and beef noodle stew for only $1.25 a person! It was filling and delicious! Our bus ride took four or five hours with one stop where we were accidentally almost left behind! But we arrived in Natal and stayed in a cheap yet wonderful hotel for the night. We ordered delivery sushi and watched march madness. Despite the Portuguese commentary it was amazing!
Day 80:
We had a fabulous breakfast at our hotel and then got ready for our flight. The airport was far outside the city and I was stressing we might miss our expensive flight. But once we arrived it took us maybe 5 minutes to arrive at our gate. Brazilian security is awesome. There were only 20 other people on our flight and after an hour of flying over the ocean we were landing on the beautiful island of Fernando de Noronha. We had to pay a tax of about $13 dollars a day per person not to mention the cost of the $50 per person park entrance pass.
Some information about the island: About 70% of the island is a national park so it’s necessary to pay the fee if you want to see much. The island was originally discovered in 1502 by amerigo Vespucci and was claimed by Portugal, France, and Holland at different times. You can still see the ruins of various forts on the island. In the 1800’s the island was used as a prison colony and all the trees were burnt down to prevent the escape of prisoners by building boats. Americans used the island as a military base during World War Two and in 1988 the island became a national park. There were so many visitors it caused problems for the park so the island imposed a limit of 420 visitors on the island at a time. I’m not sure how this is enforced but it’s fabulous to enjoy large pristine beaches with only a handful of tourists. The island is around two miles wide and six miles long with beaches on all sides. There are few animals on the island and those that exist were introduced by humans. The most notable of these are rock cavies, a small rabbit/ Guinea pig type animal, and tegus, black and white spotted lizards reaching several feet long. Besides this there are an abundance of birds, lizards, and crabs. The awesome thing about this island is the marine life. On almost every beach there is incredible snorkeling. Besides the countless varieties of fish, the island is home to sea turtles, sting rays, Dolphins, and sharks.
Back to our day: Upon arrival we checked into our hotel and then walked to the beach, about 15 minutes away. The beach was beautiful with rocky islands and hills in the background. The waves were gentle and we saw small sharks swimming near the beach. Some park workers brought sea turtles onto the beach and everyone else crowded around. The beach closed at 4:00 because the tide rises up to vegetation and there is no sand to sit on. We caught a bus to the center of town and ate burgers for a late lunch. We stopped by a grocery store and got some snacks and sandwich stuff. It was dark by the time we caught a bus back to our pousada and we watched tv and ate sandwiches before bed.
Day 81:
We had a wonderful breakfast at our pousada before setting out for the day. We looked at google maps and saw a road heading to a remote beach. We decided to take the road but upon arriving there was a barbed wire gate. We decided to press on but eventually reached another locked gate and a sign indicating we shouldn’t try to keep going. We turned around and found another trail that looked promising. Halfway down we met some people who told us the natural pool at the end was closed. Frustrated we returned to the beach from the day before. We had bright our snorkel equipment but were required to rent a life jacket so that we wouldn’t walk on the coral. The snorkeling was absolutely amazing. We saw several sea turtles and countless fish. It was like swimming in an aquarium. After snorkeling for a couple hours we walked back to our pousada and made some sandwiches for lunch. It was late afternoon and we decided to hike to a good spot for a sunset. We had a map provided by the island but we could not find the trail shown on the map. It’s probably for the best because the trail was quite long and difficult and we only had a couple hours until darkness. Instead we took another trail to a beautiful huge beach where we only saw a handful of other people. There were rock islands just offshore, sea turtle nests, and birds that kept swooping overhead. I took a swim and tried to catch a bird. The water was crystal clear and I didn’t want to leave. But we hiked on for the sunset, stopping at a scenic overlook of sueste bay where we had snorkeled. There were two cannons remaining from an old fort here as well. We continued on to probably the southernmost tip of the island where we caught the last few moments of the sunset. We were out of water and exhausted by the time we hiked back to our pousada. We ordered a pizza and watched a movie before bed.
Day 82:
The next day we ate a big breakfast and then hiked back to the natural pool trail. It was a nice hike but when we saw the natural pool we weren’t very impressed. It was small and crowded and we think it’s necessary to make arrangements ahead of time to snorkel there. We decided not to mess with it and returned to the same spot where we had snorkeled the previous day. We only stayed for about an hour but the snorkeling was even better. We saw several sting rays, two 4 foot sharks, and seven sea turtles eating in a group. It was an awesome time but we had to return and check out of our hotel. We walked the short way back to the airport and took a taxi to our next pousada. We stayed in a bungalow here that was rustic but quite beautiful and even had an ocean view. The location was good and after a huge lunch we hiked to a few different beaches on the central northern side of the island. I did some more snorkeling but the waves were quite violent and there were rocks underwater. We hiked to the top of a rocky hill next to the ocean and took pictures of the sunset. We returned to our bungalow and bought some fruits and vegetables from a nearby supermarket. We ate these for dinner and watched a movie. We were exhausted and asleep quite early.
We woke up to pouring rain and stayed in our bungalow until around noon. We ate some fruit and watched tv. Once the rain stopped we walked around awhile looking for food. We settled on the same burger place from the first day. We hiked a couple miles to the northeastern end of the island and swam in the bay next to port. The snorkeling here was fantastic again. There were baby sharks and sting rays all around us in the shallows and abundance of fish around the deeper rocks. There was also a school of tens of thousands of two inch long fish that surrounded us but never touched us. Swimming among them was truly incredible and indescribable. We took a bus toward the north western side of the island and hiked for awhile until we reached a rocky beach. We continues west over some difficult terrain but found a perfect sunset location. We stayed here for 30 minutes and took hundreds of pictures. It was the best sunset I’ve ever seen and we reluctantly walked back as it was getting dark. We stopped by the grocery store and grabbed some bread, meat, cheese, cereal, and milk. Once back in the bungalow we used some leftover red pepper and cucumbers to make some incredible sandwiches. Soon we were fast asleep.
The next morning we attempted to hike to beach on the southeast side of the island but the gate was locked. This beach is highly protected and we needed to have booked a tour of some sort to visit. Instead we returned to the rough waves beach. I went for a swim and was suddenly 200 yards from shore. I got worried and swam back through the rough waves and was exhausted but relieved to be back on shore. We walked on to another nearby beach with a half mile of beautiful sand and good waves for surfing. We spent some time relaxing and swimming here but soon returned to our bungalow to check out and move to a new place. Our new place was a very hot and sweaty mile hike away but we were greeted with incredible hospitality and some great information. After a shower and clothes that weren’t soaked with sweat (the island is only 4 degrees south of the equator and quite humid) we took a taxi to the western side of the island. Here we found beautiful beaches next to the iconic “two brothers” rock islands just off the coast. We hiked to the neighboring bay which had some natural pools that were unswimmable do to the tide. We hiked a long hot way to sancho beach, which is considered by many to be the most beautiful beach in the world, or at least Brazil. We loved it. After a short hike and descending around 100 feet of ladders, we reached the beach and found some shade under a tree. We went snorkeling along the rocky edge and saw countless fish of all shapes, sizes, patterns, and colors, as well as sea turtles and sting rays. It started raining but we were thankful for a break from the sun. It was a wonderful time and we swam here for several hours playing in the waves and snorkeling. We returned to the top and took pictures as the sun set. We were lucky to meet a nice couple who shared their taxi with us just as we left, saving us a very long journey home by foot and bus. We decided to eat out for dinner because we had been successful in avoiding the high restaurant costs throughout the week. We had some delicious fish moqueca, which is essentially a stew of fish, onions, peppers and tomatoes, with a tomato, lime, and coconut milk broth, served in a piping hot bowl (sorta like fajitas). It was delicious and dinner cost less than $50. We instantly fell asleep upon returning to our room.
We had scheduled a boat tour the day before and woke up early to have a great breakfast. A shuttle picked us up and took us to port where we boarded a fairly small boat. We sat on the second level and had an incredible view of the sea and the island. Soon we embarked and sailed past the small islands off the northeast tip. We saw at least 25 dolphins swimming in this area and jumping out of the sea. Then we turned west and sailed the length of the north half of the island. We passed many beaches we had been to and had an up close view of some notable points like the mountain, two brothers islands, lion rock, and the far west point of the island which has a hole through to the other side. We met some nice people on the boat and stopped in sancho bay to snorkel for about 45 minutes. Then we returned to port and were very sad to end the tour. We headed straight to the beach after stopping in a grocery store for calzone like pastries for lunch. We rented an umbrella for $2.50 and escaped the very hot sun. I rented a surf board and attempted to surf for the first time. I wouldn’t call it a complete failure but it certainly wasn’t a success. I’ll have to practice again in the future with better waves. The front of my body was banged up and rubbed raw from the board and the rest of me was sunburnt. I took a break while Sarahi attempted to surf as well without much success. It started to rain and I attempted surfing again. After that we returned to our pousada to shower and head to the airport for our flight. The airport is tiny with only two planes flying through each day. An hour later we landed in natal and ate subway in the airport for dinner. I found a 5 star hotel near the beach for less than $50 a night and decided to book it for two nights. We were excited for our first wifi in the week and had no desire to leave the shade and air conditioning of our room. Most of all I was excited to watch some March madness, but was asleep as soon as the games ended.
It was a phenomenal week, and both of our favorite places of the trip so far. I’ve never been somewhere so beautiful. It is expensive, hard to reach, and has complicated rules and schedules for beaches. Nonetheless I’m very glad we decided to spend a little extra to experience this gem. Many times I wished I had a GoPro or some other kind of underwater camera so I could capture and share the amazing things we saw. The marine life really is what makes this island so special. But it was also nice to enjoy the underwater paradise without worrying about pictures. And as Sarahi wisely said, the underwater views are a special memory just for us that we don’t have to share with anyone else! In conclusion, Fernando de Noronha was beautiful like nowhere I’ve been before and I hope this weeks post provides a glimpse of the wonder that is so impossible to capture.



























































































